48 Hours in Thornhill | A Visitors Guide
History & Heritage
A " Ducal Village"
Not every resident today admires the above name for Thornhill. But it is historically accurate. Founded on the property of the local Lord, the Earl of Queensberry (later to be Dukes of Queensberry and Buccleuch), the aristocracy designed it to be their handsome village of trades and residences near the lairdship seat of Drumlanrig Castle. By the mid-18th c. Thornhill was indeed the pride of the Dukes, visible from their massive pink sandstone pile. It was by then a staging post for travellers between major towns of Dumfries (14 miles south), Kilmarnock (40 miles north) and Glasgow (48 miles n.) [see village perambulation below for historic buildings and monuments]
Castles
Morton Castle is a charming ruin at least 600 years old. One of a chain of medieval castles in Nith River valley, along a historic route from the Solway Firth into Central Scotland. The south face of the castle stands proud, along with bits of a tower. Originally it would have been triangular, hence the oblique angles in an otherwise rectangular main block. Given its original position on a ridge above a bog (today a lochan), it was defensive in design. [3.5 miles north of Thornhill]
Drumlanrig Castle is a massive Baroque pile constructed in pink sandstone for the first Duke of Queensberry circa 1675 to 1697. Given the paucity of trees in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, it was held in particular awe by all visitors to the location amid rolling hills. Highlights of a visit today include formal gardens and the Duke of Buccleuch impressive art collection, which has paintings by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, and Reynolds. [4 miles north of Thornhill. Visit www.drumlanrigcastle.co.uk for times and prices.]
Walking
North Drumlanrig Street features 19th and possibly late 18th century terraced cottages. The old post office in red sandstone dates to 1912, while neighbouring nos. 138-139 presents an equally considered double house in Tudor fashion (c. 1875).
A highlight of South Drumlanrig Street is the Buccleuch and Queensberry Arms Hotel built in 1855 to replace an earlier inn. Further down the road are the Freemason Hall (1834), the former Evangelical Union Church (1873), and at no. 95A, the former Union Bank (1852) featuring a Doric columned portico.
At the top of West Morton Street is the gothic Virginhall Church — once a United Presbyterian Church — completed in 1897. The cross roads here are Townhead Street and Dalgarnock Place, indicating that the original settlement (called New Dalgarnock) began in this now gentrified district.
Finally and not least, East Morton Street.
Handsome stone townhouses are complemented by the old Parish Hall (now Thomas Tosh cafe/shop; see Cafes below). Designed by James Barbour (c. 1893) in French Renaissance style, the facade is suffused with carving from swags of fruit and a burning bush. A more recent addition is a bust of Joseph Laing Waugh, local Edwardian chronicler and creator of the fictional character after whom the current occupant is named.
Below a land bridge is the immaculately groomed Thornhill Bowling Club Green, opposite the War Memorial.
Where the road forks is the 1896 Joseph Thomson Monument. With references to Lions, Mount Kilimanjaro, and map of Africa, the chunky pedestal is topped with a bust of the African explorer, raised locally, and known as one of the more ethical British adventurers and European namesake for a species of gazelle.
Just past and to the left are recently erected giant sculptures (a two-storey tall fork!) in the garden of metalworker Nate Robinson, whose forge is behind his home in the old school house. (See Crafts and Art below). Going right from the Thomson Monument, is newly renovated Old School Thornhill (a primary built in 1909), with small auditorium and artists studios, and the 00’s Wallace Hall Academy. The walk ends at the Romanesque Morton Parish Church, designed by William Burn in 1839. It replaced the earlier old Parish Church and historic graveyard, a mile out of town.
Walking outwith the village centre
The Village Circular walk makes use of long-established “core paths” through ancient woodland which surrounds Thornhill on three sides. Defiance Wood — north of the village centre — is a relatively recent plantation of mostly native species to mark the battle of Trafalgar. It links to more established woodland. A longer walk in a similar direction takes one to Dabton Loch, an isolated reservoir made for fishing on the Buccleuch Estate. Finally the most challenging walks leads to the natural attraction of Crichope Linn, a gorge with various waterfalls. All these walks require stout footwear.[Visit the Buccleuch and Queensberry Hotel web site at bqahotel.com/thornhill-walks/ for details and online maps]
Cycling
There are a variety of single- and dual-track “B roads” that surround Thornhill and make idea road cycling routes for those experienced in rural riding in Scotland
Penpont Active Travel Path links Thornhill, via the historic Nith Bridge (1777) and a 9th c. cross shaft, to Penpont the wee village 2 miles west. Thanks to local fund-raising, it is fully paved, entirely off road and extremely safe for riders of all experience. E-Bike hire is available in Penpont, where the local trust also runs a community cafe. [Visit https://kptdevelopmenttrust.org/]
Townhead Loop presents a more challenging ride. From Thornhill, riders must ascend some 200 metre to a clutch of cottages and farms known oddly as Townhead. Here riders enjoy unobstructed vistas across the Nith Valley. The precipitous route down hill returns to the village. [scotlandstartshere.com/tours/thornhill-to-townhead-loop/]
A longer ride takes you to the charming if sleepy hamlet of Durisdeer, whose Parish church features the Queensberry Marbles in a Baroque crypt or aisle. Among the sculptures is the statue of Baldacchino derived from that which adorns the high alter in Rome’s St. Peter Cathedral. By going via Morton Castle and back roads, one can create a loop by returning via the A702 through Carronbridge, joining the A76 to Thornhill.
EATING & DRINKING
Thornhill offers a limited but promising range of dining and drinking opportunities from breakfast to evening meals. It is particularly rich in cafes.
The Buccleuch and Queensberry Arms Hotel is the village’s place for special occasions and the dining room frequently fills up with locals and visitors. Menus range from pizza to three-course a la carte options. Alternatively just stop in for a pint or glass of wine. [South Drumlanrig Street]
Unlike many rural villages in Scotland, Thornhill proudly has not lost The Farmer’s Arms, a favourite pub. It boasts a national award for its Cask Conditioned ales, and new ownership has spruced up the premises while keeping its traditional feel. A wide variety of live bands play at weekends. Bingo and quiz nights also feature regulary. [North Drumlanrig Street]
If you prefer a homely, warm setting for your tea and sandwich, Jinny’s Tearoom has your name on it. Expect traditional cakes and scones. Open 10 to 1500 hours, Monday to Saturday, South Drumlanrig Street. Thomas Tosh fills the upper-end of the tea and espresso market. Homemade cakes and hot savoury dishes such as venison burger –and a licence to sell bottled beer and wine –are among its attractions. Daily 10 to 1600 hours. [East Morton Street]
A relative new comer, Lean Bean offers a more ‘health food’ and environmentally friendly orientation to its offerings. Its founder was an espresso master, so don’t be shy. Upstairs has a zero waste refill pantry. Hours vary, open from 07.30 Monday to Friday, later on weekends [North Drumlanrig Street] The doyen on the cafe scene is the 100 year old Drumlanrig Cafe. It plays off its Scots-Italian origins with ice-cream cones, pizza and fish suppers in addition to more modest cafe fare and full breakfasts. Licensed. Hours vary, open from 0800 and until later at weekends. [North Drumlanrig Street]
Takeaways
It should be no surprise that cafes listed above offer takeaway, but their offerings are complemented by the following. For traditional British Chinese fare, Jade Garden has a long list of familiar cuisine, such as Sweet and Sour, Chow Mein, et al. Open from 17.00. Cash only. [North Drumlanrig Street]. At time of writing, a much loved Dumfries chain Marchbank Bakers was renovating its original Thornhill bakery premise, while maintaining a takeaway business a few doors away. Fresh loaves, sweet cakes, filled rolls, wraps, salads, and soup. Open 06.30 to 15.00 Monday to Saturday. [South Drumlanrig Street]
SHOPPING
Groceries, Sundries & Off Licence
Two options will fulfil most of your food, tobacco, vape, newspaper, liquor, ATM, and lotto needs. Slightly better supplied, the Scottish Co-op is a modern mini/express supermarket. Open 06.00 to 22.00. The competition, Spar, is a well-ken business across rural Scotland, with some hot takeaway options and slushy machines. Open 07.00 to 22.00 weekdays, from 08.00 weekends. [North Drumlanrig Street]
Speciality
Across Britain, the local retail scene is in flux due to online shopping. Nevertheless, Thornhill punches above its weight. Charming and honest throwback to simpler times, Hillhouse and Hunter Hardware is not only well-stocked but something of a museum with its shelves of goods behind the counter. The way all iron-mongers once were. Open Monday to Saturday; closed for lunch [North Drumlanrig Street]
For Scotch whisky, House of Carrick is a specialist boutique retailer of exquisite single malts, other spirits, champagne, beer, and wine. All the distilleries appear to be represented, as well as the independently bottled whiskies that connoisseurs crave. 11.00 to 18.00 Thursday to Friday; 10.00 to 17.00 Saturday. [South Drumlanrig Street]
Recently opened Chapters Books & Gifts is locally owned independent retailer, with both new and ‘pre-loved’ fiction, non-fiction, children, and young adult books. The owner, a former newspaper journalist, has a passion for the written word. Hours vary, generally 10.00 to 16.00. [North Drumlanrig Street]
Raven Moon Holistic Therapy & Crystals certifies the eclectic nature of retailing in this rural village. Jewellery includes a Celtic obsidian range, while crystal carvings might just add a much-needed talisman to your life. Open 10.00 to 16.00 Tuesday to Saturday. [North Drumlanrig Street]
Set in the handsome, spacious former Parish Hall, Thomas Tosh is both a cafe [see listing above] and shop for gifts, books, interior accessories, European food stuffs, and more, including some local crafts such as metal sculpture from Nate’s Forge [more below]. Shop hours, 10.00 to 17.00. [East Morton Street]
Not many villages can boast its own local traditional butchers. John G. Renicks shows that Thornhill is above the norm. Specialists in Scottish beef, pork, and lamb — plus award-winning pies. Open Monday to Saturday; closed for lunch. [North Drumlanrig Street]
Crafts & Art
Dumfries & Galloway is home to hundreds of artists and crafts people. Every May, The Spring Fling sees artists opening their studios right across the vast district [www.spring-fling.co.uk]. Thornhill is not an exception and the following residents produce stunning works in the village. Please note that visits are by appointment but all artists have web sites and Instagram accounts.
At Nate’s Forge Nate Robinson produces all manner of metal sculptures, from tiny houses to giant cutlery. Some of his most popular works are skeletal dinosaurs the size of a Harley Davidson motorbikes. [East Morton Street, www.natesforge.uk]
Alison’s Atelier is the workshop for bespoke jewellery-maker Alison Macleod. Her intricate and delicate rings, earrings, etc — created with precious stones and gold — are unique. [Old School Thornhill, www.alisonmacleod.com]
Next door to Alison, is potter Samuel Sparrow, a Glasgow School of Art graduate who set up his own studio in 2020 after a career with Ikea and Habitat. Sparrow Pottery specialises in wheel-thrown tableware and studio pottery, often with signature matte and earth-tone glazes. [Old School Thornhill, www.samuelsparrow.com]
Vibrant colours and abstract designs are the forte of Gyllian Thompson, whose hand-woven tapestries and rugs are made using scaffold looms. Gyllian takes inspiration from the rural landscape, although she creates charming portraits as well. [Corstorphine Road, gyllianthomsontapestries.co.uk]
Gallery
About 2 miles southeast of Thornhill, in a charming 18th c. red sandstone watermill, Cample Line exhibits contemporary art from established and often internationally known creatives, curated by director Tina Fiske and team. They also run workshops led by local artists, such as aforementioned Gyllian Thompson.
PLUS!
Finally, and as if all that has come above wasn’t enough to fill your visit, the community also offers golfing at the Thornhill Golf Club with a meandering 18-hole parkland course and clubhouse about 1 mile east of the village. [www.thornhillgolfclub.co.uk] The members-only Thornhill Bowling Club hosts several open tournaments throughout the summer, rolled on a pristine green. [East Morton Street; Facebook Thornhill Bowling Club] If you are in need of some strength training or power lifting contact S.C. Fitness [Townhead Street; Facebook S.C. fitness T]
